Directly across the Mekong River from the city of Luang Prabang (Laos) is Chomphet. We heard Chomphet is Luang Prabang’s quiet and very rustic neighbor, so we walked down to the riverfront to see about catching a boat across the river. We found a group of Laotians waiting near a boat, so we waited with them, and waited somemore. Finally, a curious Laotian approached us and asked what we were waiting for?  When we replied “a boat,” he explained the boat landing was another a few minutes down the river (still have no idea what everyone was waiting for). We thanked him, found the correct boat landing within a few minutes, and paid 10,000 kip a piece ($1.20) for the short ride to Chomphet.

Undeveloped Chomphet is to the north of the Mekong River, and Luang Prabang to rhe south

Boats just like the one we took to/from Chomphet

Once we got to Chomphet, the rumors we had heard were immediately confirmed. Busy paved streets were replaced with brick and dirt roads that were literally wide enough for just one car. There were no hotels or travel agencies, just a very small village and lots of peace and quiet.

After a short 10 minute walk the small village was behind us, and the landscape gave way to lots of trees and one dirt path that lead into the countryside. The temperature was well over 100 degrees, so after another mile, we ducked into an abdanoned thatched hut for some much needed shade. We split a sweet potato and water, and enjoyed some great views of the Mekong and surrounding jungle.

Downtown Chomphet. What happens when two cars meet on this road?

The dirt road into the countryside

The dirt road into the countryside

The view from the thatched hut we “borrowed”

The view from the thatched hut we borrowed

As we continued along the lone dirt path into the countryside, we passed three wats or temples, all of which are home to Laotians monks. All Lao boys betwen the age of 12 and 20 are expected to temporarily become a novice monk for a period of at least three months. Unlike a monk, novice monks only take 10 vows, instead of 200 + (but they still shave their heads, dawn an orange robe, and move away from their familes and into a monastery).  It kind of sounds like the social equivalent of going away to college in the US, as the boys find independence away from home, bond with others their same age, and take the opportunity to explore what they might want to do with their lives.

Following a map on our phones, we branched off to a smaller and more overgrown trail that lead through the Wat Had Siaw. We knew we were on the right path because it began right next to the long rectangular Standing Meditation Corridor building as referenced on the map. We also saw some small yellow concrete cones further up the path that were mentioned on the map (a good sign we were on the right track).

Notice the novice monks wear a yellow sash, while the monks do not

The Walking Meditation Corridor building, located at the beginning of the hillside trail

The start of the hillside trail, and yellow concrete cone markets built by the monks

Most of the monks’ daily routine consist of prayer, meditation, and improving their wat through renovations and art additions. On the hillside overlooking Wat Had Siaw, we came to several religious sculptures that had been crafted by the monks, including stone and gold colored depictions of Buddha, and an inscription that read “Not to do any evil, to cultivate good, and to purify one’s mind – advice from the Buddha.” After spending some quiet time on this unique hillside (not another tourist or Laotian around), we headed back to Luang Prabang for the modern comforts of air conditioning and sushi.